My Swiffer duster really is no contest for oily feather dust.    The oily feather is a little sticky and it dust repels water thereby keeping a wild or outdoor bird from getting soaked and chilled.

At BirdSupplies.com, we’ve got 4 Powder Down birds, birds that essentially throw off an oily based dust.  In order to manage the endless mess, we’ve developed a bathing routine for our birds.

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This is spacious bird carrier for car travel that offers a lot of ventilation.

by Phil Samuelson

No responsible pet bird owner should be without an appropriate portable cage for each bird in the household. A carrier is a critical item to have on hand in case the bird has a medical emergency and requires a quick trip to the veterinarian or if its owner is forced to evacuate his or her home because of a fire or other natural disaster. The portable bird carrier is also mandatory equipment when on the road traveling during planned vacations. The ideal bird carrier will also quickly convert into an appropriate and convenient hospital cage should a bird become sick or injured.

The choices of pet bird carriers available to bird owners these days are numerous–and many of them are quite good. Many of these manufactured cages are ideal for medium- to large-sized parrots like African greys, Pionus, Amazons, conures, mini macaws and small cockatoos. Large macaws pose special challenges when selecting travel cages because their long tails quickly become frayed and broken when they rub against cage walls or bars.

Essential Features

A travel cage should be lightweight and easy to lift and clean. The cage should have adequate ventilation, but keep drafts to a minimum. The construction should be durable to eliminate any chance of the pet becoming crushed by accident.

Some well-designed travel cages are constructed of thick polycarbonate with numerous holes in the surface and a wire mesh door. This type of material and design provides the necessary ventilation, while also retaining some warmth. Transparent polycarbonate allows for easy viewing of the bird, and also allows the bird to observe its surroundings. Often these types of travel cages come with a “privacy cover” that sits snugly the top (on some models this cover is an option and costs extra). Partially or completely covering the cage will help calm the bird when in a busy area or when it’s time for sleep.

Bird Carrier Components

Every bird carrier needs a good perch. A diameter of approximately 1 inch should serve most birds well. A perch with a similar diameter bolted to the top of the cage will allow the owner to let her pet out to perch and exercise its wings. This exterior perch also serves another purpose. In addition to being a comfortable, elevated place to perch, the cage-top perch also works well as a handle when transporting the carrier.

Some portable bird carriers resemble backpacks and have straps that fit comfortably around an owner’s shoulders. These carriers are available in a variety of sizes and designs and are usually constructed of durable nylon and stainless steel mesh.

For birds that are nervous travelers and do best in a mostly solid cage, laundry basket designs are available, with a heavy wicker appearance to the exterior. And for the ultimate travel cage accessory, there are cage carts designed to resemble baby carriages so owners can go for walks with their pets, either close to home or while on the road. These carriage carts allow for easy removal of a travel cage and fold up for easy storage or transportation.

Of course, there are travel cages constructed entirely of metal mesh, and these can work well, too. After all, this type of construction and materials has served bird owners well in the travel cage department for decades. Don’t overlook the standard, basic designs.

Providing adequate water is especially important when on the road. Some birds owners, particularly owners of smaller species, train their birds to drink from a bottle. Since water bowls are useless in a moving car, these bottles can come in handy when traveling. The owner, however, must be sure to use the appropriate size and design for the bird in question. Vacation is not the time to experiment with feeding new foods or new watering methods, so if a bird usually drinks and feeds from a bowl, be sure to use this method. Since some birds eat less when away from home, owners should bring plenty of their pets’ favorite food items.  

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Your bird is on it’s feet all day. Shouldn’t he have some comfortable bird perches?

Regardless of how fancy your bird’s cage is and how nutritious his diet, if you don’t provide a comfortable perch, or perches, to his domain, you are neglecting one of the most important aspects of proper parrot care.

Look at an appropriate bird perch like you would a comfortable pair of running shoes. Would you attempt to jog around your neighborhood–let alone run a marathon–in a pair of shoes that didn’t fit? Of course not. Regardless of whether the shoes are too large or too small, you would be certain to end your run with painful, tired feet as well as raw areas and blisters. The same situation occurs with your bird–although it may take longer for the bird to show evidence of a bad fit. A perch of inappropriate diameter will damage the soles of his feet. Red, worn areas will develop on your parrot’s feet much like they develop on yours. In fact, the next time you have your avian buddy out for some fun, examine his feet. You may be surprised to see an area–or areas–that look pink and irritated compared to the rest of the bird’s soles. You can bet these areas are tender–as well as painfully cramped.

The reason for this discomfort is improper perch diameter. A perch that is perfect for an African grey will not work for a macaw and vice versa. The ideal diameter is a perch that will allow a bird to grip in a manner that its feet encompass approximately 3/4 of the perch surface, with nail tips touching the perch surface. If the bird can wrap all of his toes around the perch with room to spare, the perch is too small. If the bird cannot get a firm grip and the toes do not reach the underside of the perch, it is too large.

Peachy is showing off on his Java Wood Perch

Regardless of the material the perch is made of, proper diameter is the most important consideration. Some of the best perches have a slight change in diameter depending on where the bird stands. Some natural wood perches are this way naturally, while other woods perches have been intentionally manufactured this way. The subtle variance in diameter allows the bird to flex his toes and exercise his feet. Think of the running shoes comparison gain. After a long run, doesn’t it feel good to take those shoes off and wiggle your toes? Movement of the toes and flexing of the foot muscles is a very soothing sensation when toes have been in the same position for a very long time.

So, whether a perch is wood, concrete, PVC or other synthetic material, shop for them carefully and provide the best choice possible. Your bird uses his feet for just about everything he does: climbing, eating, perching, as well as the occasional scratch to his head, like a dog sometimes uses his hind feet. Since they serve as both feet and hands, comfort is critical. You bird will appreciate it. If he could, he would thank you.

Choose some comfortable bird perches for your pet today.  Let us offer personalized customer service if you need help.

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Birds can groom their own beaks by chewing wood and safe, yet somewhat abrasive items.

How to Trim Your Birds Beak

While different species of birds have different beaks, a bird beak is designed to consume the diet that that particular species eats in its native environment and to groom feathers. Bird’s also use their beaks to feed their young. All beaks are made up of Keratin and dermis woven with vascular layers and supported by bone.

A parrots beak, in particular grows in three directions – from tom to tip from the center to the edges and from inside, deep to the surface. Keratin is the same protein that our fingernails are made of. Hooves and horns are also made of Keratin. Your birds’ beak grows between 1 to 3 inches per year, depending on your birds’ species and its health.

The germinal layer of the beak contains the organs blood supply and it extends from the skull to the tip of the beak. A birds’ beak is a very sensitive yet strong organ.

A Dremel Rotary Tool can be used to trim an overgrown beak

In the wild, birds groom their beak through day to day activities such as chewing abrasive or hard substances, using the beak when climbing and rubbing their beak on branches to clean it after eating.

A pet bird may not have as many opportunities to groom its beak and they may need occasional assistance. An overgrown beak can be trimmed down with the use of a Dremel tool, clippers or a file. Get the lowest power available. We suggest between 6,500 and 13,000 rpm which is slow enough to help you control the device so that you don’t get into the germinal layer or the blood supply.  Should you get into the germinal layer, it is very painful and may cause bleeding.

Consider providing natural ways for your parrot to groom its own beak. First, insure that you are feeding your pet a premium diet such as Harrison’s Bird Food. Also, provide plenty of toys to chew. Wood bird toys in particular wear down the excess growth. Conditioning or pedicure perches such as the Sandy Perch provide safe yet abrasive surfaces that a bird can rub its beak on for self-grooming. Place a pedicure perch near the food bowl so that when your bird finishes eating it can rub food crumbs off onto the perch while filing off excess grown.

You are encouraged to routinely check the condition of your birds’ beak looking for cracks, lesions, unusual colorations and overgrowth. Consult a veterinarian or avian specialist for guidance about any abnormalities or injuries that you notice on your birds’ beak. An over-aggressive wing trim job will cause your bird become unbalanced making it susceptible to falling forward and injuring or cracking its beak. Should your bird chip and expose germinal tissue of its beak you can stop minor bleeding with styptic powder. For more aggressive bleeding consider taking your bird to the vet to cauterize the injury.

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Parrots need about 12 hrs. of sleep each night

I learned a valuable lesson from an “almost” lost dog last night.  Albeit a sleepless, tense night.

My little 6 year old Chihuahua, Jasmine, went missing at 9:30 last night. I had been working on the website a little later than usual and got up to let the dogs out at about 9:30. Jazzy and Bailey could hear the wind whipping around and so they didn’t budge off of the bed when I called. I could have sworn that I hand carried them downstairs to go out in the fenced backyard. Exhausted from a long day, I let them back in and locked the door. Bird lights in the bird room were shut off and all my pets were all snug in their beds – almost.

Contact lenses out and my coke-bottle glasses on, I did a quick head-count before snuggling under the sheets. Jazzy was missing!

I looked in every nook and cranny in the house but she was nowhere to be found. My old standby of getting out a bag of treats didn’t work either. A friend came over to drive the neighborhood to help look for her. My worst fear was a fox! Our search caravan looked until 11:30 before giving up and coming home to plan my search strategy.

In my upset, I wanted to make a poster and submit a “lost dog” report I couldn’t find her microchip number. Worse yet, I couldn’t find a current picture! I even have professional pictures of my little pup! Needless to say, I didn’t sleep much last night. Every little sound stirred me. I kept thinking I could hear her crying but each time I got up to check, she wasn’t waiting at the front door.

Pre-prepare a “Lost Pet” Poster at least annually, so if your pet does go missing, you can jump right into action.

This morning I awoke early and started my search. Very nervous since a storm is moving in, I created “Lost Dog” posters, posted to Craig’s List “Lost Pets” and Facebook “Colorado Springs Lost Pets, FindToto.com and then I prepared to hang the posters about the neighborhood – hoping to get them hung before the neighborhood kids started walking to school. Since I was shaking a little bit, I couldn’t get the staples loaded in my staple gun. I came back inside to sit at the counter and load the gun without shooting a staple through my finger…

Just then, I heard some scratching. It was coming from the bird room. Going in to make sure that Peachy wasn’t chewing the woodwork again, I realized that something was in the closet. Jez. What else could go wrong???

You guessed it! Jazzy came running out. What a relief. She was as stressed out as I had been. Poor dog has slept all day.

On hind sight, I have prepared a list of what to do before and if your pet escapes. This is also very handy information to keep should you need to prepare an Bird Evacuation Kit.

1. Microchip your pet and make sure that Microchip registration is current at least on an annual basis.
2. Have All Intel Handy: Create a template and a file or use a smart phone app such as Pets+ on each pet in your home that contains the following information:
   1. Take a new photo annually. Try to include photo’s of any identifying marks or colorations. For instance, Timmy, our Timneh African Grey has splotchy red feathers on his neck area, while Sierra has a leg band.
   2. Update Microchip registration information annually.
   3. Create a” Lost Pet Template” with current photo and information on an annual basis.  That way, it is almost ready to go when time is of the essence if your bird should fly off or your dog or cat go missing.
3. Don’t Forget the Power of Social: Update current online and social assistance resources annually, i.e. Craig’s List, Local Facebook groups, Research based pet recovery groups such as FindToto.com for dogs
4. Create a Local Contact List:  Include Veterinarians, within a 5-10 mile radius, your local shelters, groomers, bird clubs or any other potential animal lovers who can help you quickly in a time of crisis.
5. Create a list of friends and family to call “just in case” : A ground crew search party will be very helpful.  These folks can start hanging up your pre-made poster, do a foot and car search, contact and call neighbors.
6. Don’t Give Up: While a recovery effort may be tiring, you can count on it that your pet is MORE stressed out than you are.
7. Consistently work on Coming when Called for Dogs and Recall for Birds:  For birds in particular Good Bird DVD’s and Clicker Training for Birds are excellent resources. Get a book on how to Clicker Train your particular pet and do it consistently!  Make sure that your pet knows to come to you when called.

Prepare your file and train your bird for recall today.

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Choosing the right bird perch is critical to your birds health

By Phil Samuelson

Deciding which bird perch to buy for your parrot can be one of the most important choices you make for your avian companion. After all, the perches you arrange in its cage are one of the only surfaces it touches. What works for one bird will be completely inappropriate for another. Perches are more than an area for the bird to stand. If more than one bird occupies the cage, there are social and practical functions relating to perches which often depend on  perch placement, size and material. Variety, safety and durability all are important considerations when selecting perches.

Bird Perch Size

The size of the bird perch is one of the most important considerations. After all, a perch intended for a peach-faced lovebird would hardly suffice for a blue-and-gold macaw. Completely different perch diameters are necessary for these very different parrots. Choosing inappropriate perch diameter is probably the biggest mistake made by pet bird owners. The wrong diameter results in cramped feet, overgrown nails and overall poor foot health. A proper perch diameter will allow the bird to grip approximately 3/4 of the perch so it can get a purchase with the tips of its nails.

Uneven or irregular perches are an excellent addition to any cage or bird playpen. Uneven perches are not one diameter like a dowel, but provide a choice of diameters depending on where the bird stands on the perch.

Bird Perch Material

The range of materials available for perches is surprisingly large. Remember that a bird will use the perch as a tool to clean its beak as well as a place to perch. After feeding, especially on juicy fruits and vegetables, a parrot will vigorously wipe its beak back and forth across its perch to remove any clinging food. This being the case, a perch near the cage food station should be relatively easy to clean.

Wood perches such as a manzanita branch are widely used, with good results. Perches of concrete or pumice also serve many parrot owners well. PVC is yet another popular perch material, and although somewhat slippery compared to other perch materials, it is easier to clean.  One PVC perch, the Safety Pumice Bird Perch is an exception with a proprietary sanded surface.

Bird Perch Placement

The height of bird perches has a great deal to do with the birds’ sense of security, as well as social standing in wild situations and some captive environments. African grey parrots in the wild forage for food at various levels of the forest canopy, even on the forest floor. Not surprisingly, the higher perching elevations provide the safest environment for these birds while feeding and roosting, as well as the highest sense of security. Bird trappers take advantage of the birds being less wary when high in the trees. A paper published in the Ethiopian Journal of Environmental Studies and Management (Vol.1, No.2, June. 2008) details the trapping methods of African bird trappers. Rather than raiding nesting chambers in trees, these trappers achieve their best results from using gummed bamboo bird perches placed high in the trees. The trappers place a decoy African grey nearby to attract incoming birds as they arrive at their daily roosting spots. The birds are easily fooled by the sense of security the treetop perches provide and quickly become ensnared on the sticky traps when they attempt to perch near their decoy conspecifics.

High perch elevation also provides a sense of security and comfort among pet birds. Within the cage or aviary, bird will usually try to occupy the highest perch possible. Usually, the most dominant bird or pairs of birds will occupy these locations, particularly when sleeping.

Select your bird’s perches carefully. If the cage size allows it, a pet bird owner should provide a choice of perching elevations, but the cage should never be overly cluttered with these roosting areas. When given a choice of a few perches, observing a pet bird carefully will soon reveal its favorite perch and perch location.

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A sick or injured bird needs reassurance and love

Pet birds face many household dangers, and sickness and injury are not uncommon. Whether a bird flies into a window pane and sustains a concussion, gets attacked by a cat, breaks a wing or fractures a leg during a fall, becomes egg bound, has a serious bacterial infection or experiences another debilitating condition, a secure hospital cage is necessary for its recovery.

This cage should be low in height and cannot have perches elevated beyond an inch or two. A typical bird carrier constructed of polycarbonate, like the Wingabago Bird Carrier, often converts into a infirmary cage very easily with some simple adjustments. Since many pet birds have a travel cage already, this is probably the quickest way to provide appropriate housing during the hospitalization period. Converting a travel cage also makes things easy and less stressful when transporting the bird to its veterinarian.

Safety

The hospital cage must shield a pet bird from stressful distractions. Ideally, the cage will occupy a warm, quiet room away from household traffic. This being the case, a solid plastic or even wooden travel cage with a wire front provides the necessary security. No outside motions or disturbances will startle the bird and cause it to thrash about, resulting in further injury. An owner should provide the bird with a low bird perch of appropriate diameter for comfortable grasping and resting. Of course, if a fractured leg is the problem or the bird is unable to perch, soft bedding should substitute for the low perch. If necessary, a cage cover or thick towel will go a long way toward minimizing disturbances.

Warmth

Wingabago Bird Carriers make excellent bird hospital cages for sick or injured birds.

Supplemental heat may be necessary for an injured or sick bird to remain warm enough for a swift recovery. The hospital cage must do an adequate job of retaining heat and be kept away from drafts. The ideal temperature for the bird’s hospitalization period is approximately 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Supplemental heat can come from undercage or interior heating pads or a heat lamp elevated above the cage. Extreme care must be used to not overheat the bird, and no bird should ever be placed in a hot cage. It must be allowed to occupy the cage as it heats gradually to the desired 90-degree temperature.

Nutrition and Hydration

Electrovites help stabilize your sick or injured parrot.

Some sick birds receive supplemental hand feeding or intravenous hydration and nutrition from a vet. If an owner provides any food or water bowls in the cage, they must allow for easy access and no spilling. Hydration is particularly important at these times because a sick bird can easily become dehydrated from diarrhea or regurgitation, and an injured bird may be reluctant to drink. Consult with your veterinarian about proper hydration. Two products that may be very useful to keep in your bird first aid kit include Formula One and Electrovites. 

A Few Words of Comfort

Finally, remember that your bird will be in some distress, and a gentle word can help reassure it that there is nothing to fear. Birds grow very attached to their owners and will appreciate the calming attention. Talk in a low, comforting voice to your avian friend, and assure your pet that he/she will be alright. This is especially helpful if you have had to use restraint to treat the bird and will help your bird understand that you are trying to help. After all, your parrot understands a lot of what you say to it.

And, most importantly, follow your veterinarian’s advice to the letter!

Essential Items and Conditions for the Hospital Cage
• Quiet environment
• Clean travel cage
• Paper lining or bedding that’s easy to change
• Low perch, if necessary
• Supplemental heat from heating pads or lamp
• Appropriate water, nutrition and supplements
• Thermometer
• Cage cover or towel
• Nontoxic antibacterial cleaning solution like Pet Focus

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1 teaspons = about 7 teaspoons of fresh leaf

Heating may result in some loss of important nutrients

Kale

Spirulina

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Phil Samuelson is a parrot care expert.  Here he is with a mealy Amazon in a village on the banks of the Rio Marañon, a tributary of the Amazon River in Peru.

I’d like to introduce you to our new guest writer, Phil Samuelson. Phil has written literally hundreds of articles about proper animal care and husbandry but maintains a special interest in parrot care. In addition to parrots, he has spent his lifetime keeping and breeding other exotic animals, including reptiles and amphibians, and tropical fish.

In his youth, Phil grew up on the Central Coast of California and enjoyed many of the bird species commonly kept as pets before moving up to larger species, both as pets and aviary breeding subjects. For several years he specialized in African greys and the genus Amazona. He has kept pets and breeding pairs of both subspecies of African grey parrot (Psittacus erithacus erithacus and P. e. timneh), as well as several species of Amazons, some that were common to aviculture and others that were rare. He has owned the common yellow-naped and double yellow-headed Amazons (Amazona ochrocephala spp.), lilac-crowns (Amazona finschi), mealies (Amazona farinosa farinosa), white fronts (Amazona albifrons), Mexican redheads (Amazona viridigenalis), blue fronts (Amazona aestiva) and red-lored Amazons (Amazona autumnalis), as well as more uncommon species such as the Tucuman Amazon (Amazona tucumana), yellow-shouldered Amazon (Amazona barbadensis), Bodin’s Amazon (Amazona festiva bodini) and the Panama parrot (Amazona ochrocephala panamensis). Phil has also kept other species of neotropical parrots, including Ara macaws, Pionus parrots and the Pyrrhura conures. He has also kept a few species of cockatoos over the years. Now you know why he is an expert in parrot care.

As a herpetoculturist, he has owned and bred several forms of the endangered West Indian rock iguanas, including the Cuban rock iguana (Cyclura nubila nubila), the Little Cayman rock igunana (Cyclura nubila caymanensis), the Grand Cayman blue rock iguana (Cyclura nubila lewisii) amd the rhinoceros iguana (Cyclura cornuta). He has also owned and bred a number of gecko species, cutting his teeth on the common terrestrial species (leopards, fat tails, etc.) before advancing to the large New Caledonian Rhacodactylus geckos as well as the leaf-tailed Uroplatus species from Madagascar. He has also maintained several tortoise herds, of both endangered and common species. HIs aquarist interests began with South America cichlids back in the late ’70s and gradually shifted to the smaller African lake cichlids when they later entered the aquarium trade.

With an academic background in biology and communications, Phil joined the editorial team of Bird Talk magazine during the 1980s, first as an Associate Editor and later as the only Technical Editor ever on staff during the magazine’s several decades of publication. He has spoken at the American Federation of Aviculture (AFA) Convention, the Midwest Avian Research Expo, the Mardi Gras Avicultural Conference and the Association of Avian Veterinarians Avicultural Workshop. During the mid 1990s Phil became the Founding Editor of Reptiles Magazine, which soon became the most widely read herpetological publication in the world. He also served on the Advisory Council of the International Herpetological Symposium (IHS).

Phil’s articles have appeared in Australian BirdKeeper, Bird Talk, Bird Breeder, Birds, USA, AFA Watchbird, Bird World and American Cage Bird Magazine, as well as Aquarium Fish, Reptiles and Reptiles USA. He has also written an iguana book (Bowtie Press) with his good friend Margaret Wissman, D.V.M. BirdSupplies.com is extremely lucky to work with this parrot care expert.

Phil and his wife (former Bird Talk Editor Kathleen Etchepare) and children currently reside in Colorado Springs, Colorado, where he was the Director of Publication for the American Boarding Kennels Association (ABKA) for several years. He continues to maintain an interest in exotic animals and currently breeds champion Redbone Coonhounds under the Crimson Dawn kennel name.

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Alex the Parrot changed the way the world thought about parrot intelligence

Back in the early 1990s when I was an editor on a popular national bird magazine, I attended the American Federation of Aviculture annual convention in San Diego.

One of the lectures I was looking forward to was about keeping and breeding African grey parrots, a species I had kept as a breeding aviary bird. A pair of Congo greys (Psittacus erithacus erithacus) a friend and I owned seemed to settle into their captive environment quickly and soon were on eggs. A typical elevated flight cage and nest box were used, and the diet was a standard seed mix supplemented with fruits and vegetables. Years later, when I acquired and paired up a male and female of the smaller African grey subspecies, the Timneh grey (Psittacus erithacus timneh), I came to realize all African greys were not created equal. The Timnehs would sleep in their nest box but never perched together, preened each other or seemed in sync as a breeding pair. Eggs never resulted. I was looking forward to the AFA lecture to learn more about this interesting, intelligent species.

The speaker was a man named Dave Blynn, from Georgia. Dave had bred numerous African grey parrots, and I found his level of success impressive. He was quick to recognize the keen intelligence of the species. Dave admitted that when he first started breeding greys he had little luck. This was back when parrot importation was wide open, and Dave’s breeding stock consisted entirely of nervous imports. Once acclimated to captivity, the birds were sexed and broken up into pairs. They were fed a proper diet and given appropriate cages and nest boxes. Very little breeding occurred the first year, and most of the eggs were infertile.

Pepper has learned to operate the Bird Buggy, a joystick operated bird car!

Faced with disappointing production, Dave had an idea. He gathered all of the pairs and gave them identifying marks with a nontoxic marker before placing them all together in a huge cage. Then, with a closed-circuit television, he observed the birds. He was amazed that many pairs separated quickly and paired with other birds. It seems that African greys–like people–appreciate a choice when selecting mates! Dave then broke the birds up again, this time with their chosen mates. A high percentage of the birds were on fertile eggs within months.

I found the lecture and slide show fascinating, and I introduced myself to Dave after the lecture. We became good phone friends and often had long conversations about birds. When Dave later tried his hand at breeding Vasa parrots, I had him write an article, and we published one of the first accounts of breeding this bizarre species.

But do all African greys possess a remarkable intellect? The answer is probably yes. Many bird fanciers know of Dr. Irene Pepperberg and her work with Alex the African grey parrot. When I had lunch with Dr. Pepperberg in the mid ’90s, I asked her if she thought Alex was exceptionally gifted or just an ordinary grey. She considered the question and responded that she thought he was probably typical. She had started working with some younger greys and had found them similar. What many of Alex’s fans probably never realized was that he was a feather chewer with a bare chest. African Greys are infamous for this self-destructive behavior, so Alex was certainly typical in that regard. He was an excellent talker, but still a bit nervous and maladjusted.

Don’t sell the African grey parrot short in the smarts department. I suspect their mental abilities are greater than most bird owners think!

Spark your African Grey Parrots intellect with fun bird puzzles and props at Birdsupplies.com

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